So Amman is not the best city to walk through.
You don't have sidewalks on some streets, but still it's fine; if a taxi sees you busy walking the driver will start honking because he automatically assumes you probably were searching for one and even though you know exactly which direction to go you'll find yourself sometimes making huge unnecessary turns around to get to a certain place, because there is an unexpected hill between the streets you wanted to cross or the road you're taking suddenly becomes a dead end.
So in the end you'll walk more. And the beauty is that you walk up and down the hills, between the houses, and get a superb view of the green lights coming from the mosks, also the shining crescent moons and stars that are the typical symbols of Ramadan and the city lights at the distance.
The weather is soft and fresh during the nights and the sun is kind during the days. If it wouldn't be for Ramadan and wanting to know what fasting feels like, I would spend my free time outside as much as possible.
But I did break my fast already. Two days ago I walked for 4 hours to renew my visa (currently applying for residency but it's taking ages), I didn't buy a bottle of water coz you are not supposed to drink in the streets during the daytime out of respect so I got back home completely dry, drank loads of water, threw water over my face and all over and rest my feet.
In half an hour I was alive again, took a shower and prepared myself for an Iftar out of home. Iftar (breakfast because it's the first meal of the day) takes place after the fasting and now with Ramadan in August it starts a bit after 7pm.
This is when we break the fast, then we can eat and drink normally the whole night and the fasting restarts at around 4am. At first I was waking up to eat something then or staying up till then, but now it's already easy if you eat just before going to bed, at 1am or around. The working schedule gets slightly shorter, you still start around 9am but finish at 3 or 4pm.
It's family time but it ends up being a really short meal because everyone is so hungry that in 15mins they are finished eating. This is so non-Portuguese style... or at least Granada style, where a meal takes hours if we allow it :D
But the point was, and going back to the walking aspect of it, Amman is a beautiful city to discover on foot. Even if the streets or the taxidrivers make you think otherwise, with Ramadan or without or when you get 7 people in a row telling you the wrong directions and out of their unique kindness wanting to call a taxi for you... as long as you can admire the view on the other side of the hill or the fresh breeze ("nessma") in your face it will have been worthwhile and three hours sooner or later you'll get there, based on hints and without a map.
And the wonderful thing is that you got everything it takes to get you there: your feet and your eyes to admire the view.
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