Monday, July 7, 2014

“for I cannot guarantee to endure at all times the confinements of even an attractive cage.”

(said Amelia Earhart, one of the first women aviators)

I've got a confession to make. It's been 6 days now and I'm starting to feel jittery with the ivory tower we live in. It's great, spacious, lavishly green (the irony, remember there is only 2% of the country in green?) and we even have a pool! But it's been 6 days now that we go mostly home to work and work to home. The city is calling me!

The exploration will have to be in a different way this time, for security reasons. Tomorrow the French institute with a movie screening. Soon enough I'll go check out the Observatoire. A view point of the city. It's on the green area of the map. Heard it's beautiful. And to see things from the top, to get some fresh air, to feel the breeze, always brings me back my freedom.


Sunday, July 6, 2014

how come you don't know Cristiano Ronaldo?

So on my first week, we get a visitor coming into the office... He is about 12 years old. At first he acts shy and he talks to my colleague, says hi, banal stuff.

I start realizing he is the son of one of our colleagues and since we're in the World Cup craze, my colleague starts teasing him about who he supports. He seems to be for the US first of all as he is an American citizen (many Haitian mothers go to Miami to give birth so that their children can have the nationality and thus much more mobility in their future). Then he is slightly supportive of France. Must be the weight of history.

But my colleague makes it really hard for him... she tells him Belgium will will against Argentina. For your information: my colleague obviously comes from chocolate land otherwise who would ever believe so :), and most Haitians tend to support Argentina and Brazil, probably due to the geographical closeness.

I think he cared more about playing football - or even coming to check up on what we were doing - than on the World Cup thing, so he smiled without reacting much to the provocation.

He gained some courage and came a bit closer, already smiling. He asked me where I was from and I said Portugal. I added that it was the country of Cristiano Ronaldo. Hopefully that would help. It did. But the second day he came, a bit closer, a bigger smile, he asked: "tu connais Cristiano Ronaldo?" (do you know Cristiano Ronaldo?). I even bragged I was his age and born on the same day (I think); but no, sadly I don't know him.

He asked a more difficult question next: "Pourquoi tu ne le connais pas?" (how come you don't know him?) and so I did a 3 minute cultural presentation of Portugal with the help of GoogleMaps, where I showed him my home city and then... far away... somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic the archipelago of Madeira, where CR7 was born. Where I've never even been (yet!) And then we wondered off in the map to the UK because I heard the guy plays for one team over there.

Pretty good topic to start a cultural sharing considering my complete ignorance on football history. Haha.

He continued talking and between the low tone of voice and perhaps a bit of creole mixed, I felt silly asking him to repeat what he said about 3 times, so I was only following about 60% of what he actually said. I hope this gets better and easier soon.

We had to leave for lunch break and I felt like taking the kid along with us. His mother was not there at the moment so maybe next time. We invited him to come over to our house on the weekend. I could tell he wouldn't mind at all. Both me and my colleague are sort of in love with the cute boy.

Before leaving with his mom in the afternoon, he left us each a slice of pizza
Good thing school holidays are on, would be nice to have this kind of interruption every now and then :)

PS: this is not him - I still don't know how and when it is appropriate to take pictures of people.


16H25, 01/07, 23 KG - I got here!

And here am I, again in a country I had never thought I'd go to and I am here to call it home for the next months.

I started reading some things before and the past days I got even more info so let's start with some data. This is as far as objectivity will go in this blog, you should be aware of it :)

In 1492 it was discovered, in 1804 it becomes a republic. This was the first independent black nation, wow right!

150 million francs (modern equivalent of $21 billion) was the debt France imposed to the country in return for its independence.

In May 2010, the World Bank seems to have finally waived on the country's remaining debts. The value of the waiver was $36 million. (Wikipedia)

On January 12th 2010, the country got struck by a really strong earthquake (7,0 magnitude in the Richter scale). The numbers are unclear but there could have been from 40,000 to 300,000 of deaths. Many governmental and commercial buildings collapsed, 80% of the schools in the capital were destroyed. The financial impact of this catastrophe is esteemed to have been 8 billion dollars, or around 120% of the country's GDP (World Bank).

Misery seems to enjoy company and in October 2010 an outbreak of cholera was identified and until now more than 8,500 people died from this epidemic (UN). This is a problem of public health which requires better hygiene habits and access to clean/treated water and sanitation infrastructures (ie. it all starts with latrines).

50,5% of the population lives in urban settings (UNFPA), particularly in the capital, which condenses the investments, the NGOs and the health, education, work services.

50% of the population is below 18 years old, 90% of the primary students are educated in international or church-run schools (versus public schools, which are neither for free) and illiteracy rate is around 52% (Wikipedia and PNUD).

Its life expectancy is the lowest (62,5 years old) and its fertility rate is among the highest in the Americas (2,98% children per woman, according to CIA).

In fact, 77% of the population lives with less than 2 USD per day (World Bank), so it's not surprising that people wouldn't have access to the most basic rights of education, health, proper living conditions. It is the poorest country in the Northern hemisphere.

1% of the population holds half of the country's wealth (or 2% holds 85% of it), making it one of the most unequal countries in the world (see Gini coefficient).

Added to that, only 2% of the country is forested and due to intensive agricultural practices as well the soil has lost its productivity up to 75% (PNUD).

But there is more to Haiti than these figures.
And without the specifics of the dates, names, indexes, a lot of other nations have been in a similar place - and got out of there.

The next posts will be about everything else that numbers can't tell. About my experience and therefore a very subjective and biased account of the matters that I will live here. But that will definitely shape my world view in a different way that media tries to.

Let's try again, shall we?

Four years later, I have decided to bring this blog alive again. There's a new place to tell you about. And there is a new motivation to use this space better, more frequently. And there is a wiser, more experienced, more stubborn Claudia. To share the best that my eyes will see.

By words, most of the time though. But as much as I can, there will be photos and other material too.
I hope the warmth will come across right over to your side of the world. I hope you will feel part too.

That's my goal.


Monday, August 2, 2010

the hardest part

Leaving.

I said goodbye 3 times from 3 different places.

The first that felt like bye was leaving Oman, it’d been about 10 days that I was there but I got to meet more than 50 people over there, I lived the whole time together with 2 girls from the national team in Oman (they did the same I did but in Oman) and a group of trainees in a big, hot villa and I got to participate there in a conference and as well visit new places. My kind of vacation.

It’s still a mystery for me how I created such strong bonds with so many people there, how they still remember me and send me messages because I was a really transitory and rather random element there. Someone who seemingly dropped by from Jordan for a conference, half dead-tired half thrilled about what was about to start there. Omani people are tremendously hospitable to be quite fair, they love to drive you around even when going nowhere, they will even go out with you in the unbearable heat if you ask them too… or they will lay on the sofa with you the whole lazy afternoon if you don’t.

On the day I was leaving I was almost disappointed I was not gonna be seeing anything more but then suddenly I had a big group (big as in it wouldn’t fit 1 but 2 full cars) dedicated to go do whatever, which turned out to be going to a museum because all other options were closed or done already. Two Brazilians (Cintia and Carolina), a Polish girl (Ewelina), an Indian (Yousuf) and then Anjali, Sam and Aisha came afterwards on a different car. Four others had left on a trip to Dubai otherwise we would even risk to be more.

I don't have a picture with them all. Missed the moment! But I have Anjali, Sam and me posing like true Omani girls :)



It was a simple, small and at times interesting museum, I even read there things I didn’t want to about Portugal (we’re known there for slicing off noses and ears of the locals back in the colonization years!) and it was so hot that all the walking we did felt as too much, no matter how much walking I normally like to do. Oman and the Gulf countries are some other reality, I heard these days it’s more than 50° over there and there were even unbelievable news that it can go as high as 80° (which is not possible without human extermination as we know it but gives you an idea how unimaginable it gets).

And then we headed to the airport, they went inside with me and waited for ages for my check-in (I was right behind a never-ending train of household packages with people around it, to the sides and appearing from behind and front), we mocked the tourism add of Oman above the desks and talked about other things I now cannot remember exactly, all I remember is their faces then. And then I was about to leave and got a gift, I got this beauty and a letter from the national team:



About 10 days meeting pretty much everyone for the first time, except for around 7 people there, whom I also didn’t know that much before landing! Ain’t it o-mazing? For me it was and I miss them even today.

Then I came back to Jordan, still had to finish some work and then basically pack up and get ready for my trip: I didn’t travel home from Jordan but instead went through Palestine and then Israel before taking the plane, in Tel Aviv.

This was the big farewell, this was the one I wanted to avoid because I didn’t know how to deal with it. Reaching the conclusion that I didn’t have time to be with everyone individually and that after all this time there was no unrude way out of an official farewell, I organized an evening where I gave myself the expectations of cooking, doing a small presentation of Portugal and basically sharing some words with the friends who would be there. Well, the eve before at 4am I still had all my clothes around the room (and not inside the bag), I hadn’t even started looking at the pics and at what I could prepare as a presentation and the words were at one third done (I had started writing something like small messages for each person, personal ones, but was yet unsure how I’d pass them on to them).

And then the night came, I was supposed to meet just before my neighbours and Cécile (we lived in a french spot of Amman) because they wouldn’t go to the party, we stayed home for a bit and I got late, people started calling where was I and for directions (which I didn’t know haha), I said bye to my neighbours and me and my flatmate went out to find a taxi and get to Tareq’s place, where we were meeting everybody but before I met some friends around the corner because they really had to leave before.



People calling again saying they would have to leave soon too and me freaking out coz this was not the party I was hoping for. Abed, Amal and Shatha then ended coming up to Tareq’s house for a bit and at least I got to stay with them a bit more.

Oh my god coming up I felt like staying near the door, or going to the almost empty kitchen… there was a lot of people and I wasn’t ready, no presentation, no food, not even the proper parting smile! I run around and said hi to everybody, talked to them all and it felt really good to have them all there: JJ, Karlijn, Hanne, Sultan, João, Breno, Fadi, Shaher, Hakeem, Osama, Ma’moon, Safa’, Mirza, Walaa’, Luma, Maher, Lana, Bechir, Eyad, Bashar, Suzanne, Tareq of course…



Some of my favourite people were there and I had no decent presentation about Portugal, no nice, well-thought words to tell them, nothing for them to eat and think it tastes Portuguese.



The night was good because those people were there, there was a very random slide show with some of my pics in Jordan and others from Portugal, there was a bit of dubka dancing and singing, there had to be singing in my farewell :) And then people started leaving, the conversations went from the living room to the kitchen and then we stood in the hallway by the end, I gave away some things I had to share with them and then I had to leave and right then someone else called and I still met halfway Amer.

I still remember the last words face to face (“you must apply”, “come visit me in Portugal”, “I wish I had met you for longer”, “I’ll see you soon”, “I’m getting used to this”…), the strong hugs and another one, the thank yous, the random photos, the licking of my glasses (seriously?!), the sambuzas that we didn’t prepare, the sharing of some last photos, my laptop that didn’t play only Portuguese songs but some other random ones… It was really really really such a pleasure to have lived this year with you all!



But the farewell was still not over, the next day I had until 3pm to actually finish packing and get gone, which started after I came back home and ended around 11am I think, when Elton came over and still had to wait for me coz I was not even ready. I needed to do mail things and find the bank before so he came with me, then we met Cecilia, the Mexican girl that was back to Jordan for my last day there! The one who went to the airport to receive me the day I came too, we came full circle! So I finished the last tasks, we went back home and had lunch and then it was already time to go to the bus station, from where I’d meet the uncle of my friend Amal and go until the border with Palestine, about one hour something away.

More hugs and smiles, all a bit rushed, and I got to the bus station. Afterwards I’ll tell more about the trip there but now there’s my last farewell to write about, the moment when I left what almost became my family in Palestione after a few days. This was my last trip and in many aspects will be one of the most memorable. I was really privileged because if at first I thought I would be doing most of this trip totally on my own, it turned out that I had company almost the whole way – and great company!



My last farewell was when I left the village where Nasser’s family is from, there were his mother and brother there, his aunt, husband and children, his uncle whom I shared the taxi with days before, and his family, his grandmother and some other cousins… we had lunch together, the Sabri family and me, and then a taxi came to pick me up and take me to Ramallah, from where I’d go to Jerusalem that afternoon. The sweetest children faces, the tastiest food, the most welcoming smiles and such joy… I learnt for years that the context influences people and there it was the negation of my 7 years of study. Love, kindness, joy are unconditional, they can actually blossom in any time or place within us, we are such extraordinary machines.



There were more small farewells, many others way before (each time someone would go away) and there were still other moments that were like farewells but weren’t spoken, acted, felt as such but these 3 made me conclude that no, leaving is not the hardest part at all. They say the ones who leave actually are the luckiest ones and no matter what the odds are, you have the hope, the wish, the will to see them again. You promise, you say things, you look in the eyes or not, you smile and laugh and things get better, things get comfortable again if only for a few moments.

The hardest part is when you are already gone but still you are there with them, you just can’t meet them up anymore. You still write to them and see the pictures, you get messages and phone calls but you are in two different places already. You go out and have fun but then something reminds you, you talk about something that makes you think and you go back. And you’re not in the place you are now because you are still in the place you left.

This is the hardest part for me, right now, being here with you being there.

The worst that can happen when you are abroad

You plan it wrongly and choose to pay rent when you would rather use that money travelling the last days of your stay. I think I'm going to stay longer or I just don’t think. In the end, I pay extra money I barely have as I've used it to travel around. It’s not so bad coz at least it gives me a sense of home until the last moments before leaving.

You are stuck at home in a country with no public transportation. For someone who has the travel bug (or the addiction, the virus, the syndrome), this is comparable to claustrophobia. To be stuck in a country where taxis are supposed to be unsafe (or simply inaccessible) and there are barely any buses, no trains or metros yet and it’s damn hot out there to walk until the car, let alone. Basically depending entirely on private cars to see places, everywhere.

You realize your credit card is expired and doesn’t work in the ATMs. It’s been expired for 2 months already but I never noticed it before travelling outside the country. And even if I had noticed it, wouldn’t change much because now I can’t get another card shipped to me, plus the new password. And dealing with the bank outside the country over the phone also doesn’t leave me much options, security measures playing against me.

You lose your cellphone charger in the last place you stayed in. And then I am travelling and I run out of battery and the only way to reach the people I am supposed to meet. Or I don’t have a watch and need to check the time of my train, bus, whatever, over there. I need it to pass on messages in a language I don't speak. Or people stress out because I am out of reach. Or I stress out because I am out of reach.

You don’t have time/are too broke to buy gifts before leaving in the airport. This is my most common one – I know how much I appreciate to get an exotic gift from abroad but normally I don’t have the time or money to buy it myself for others… It’s upsetting and the worst is that I realize how uncool it is when I’m already on my way to the gate, with 15mins left to boarding. I hate airports nowadays, they have the crappiest things from the country, they are all sold very together and very cliché-style and that hinders my will/ability to buy them.

You realize you want to stay longer in the country but can’t distinguish the logic from the heart anymore. You get a life there, you have your friends, you have your home, you know the places and you have the colleagues and the connections you need – it became your place, almost now even more familiar than the place you originally call home. And you get emotional about it, of course. And you have not something concrete, sure, more promising to come back to. You have to restart at home.

You fall in love before leaving.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

On this earth

It's been so long, I've missed sharing things with you! Busy in a new neighbourhood, enjoying summer/autumn swing with friends and finally taking pictures again (will be posting them soon).

But found this poem randomly while in the middle of work. Couldn't help it, it's beautiful. There is something immensely beautiful and tragic about the Arabic culture. Come along with me...

We have on this earth what makes life worth living: April’s
– hesitation, the aroma of bread
at dawn, a woman’s point of view about men, the works of
– Aeschylus, the beginning
of love, grass on a stone, mothers living on a flute’s sigh and
– the invaders’ fear of memories

We have on this earth what makes life worth living: the
– final days of September, a woman
keeping her apricots ripe after forty, the hour of sunlight in
– prison, a cloud reflecting a swarm
of creatures, the peoples’ applause for those who face death
– with a smile, a tyrant’s fear of songs.

We have on this earth what makes life worth living: on this
– earth, the Lady of Earth,
mother of all beginnings and ends. She was called
– Palestine. Her name later became
Palestine. My Lady, because you are my Lady, I deserve life.


Mahmoud Darwish (1942-2008)